Asian street food.

What comes to mind? Bustling urban sidewalks buzzing with chatter? Roadside booths with steaming woks, all specializing in one masterfully prepared dish?

Or perhaps is it people with cleavers and unsuspecting chickens?

This is the kind of feeling Mai Pham, owner and chef at Star Ginger, wants diners to get from her dishes. Many of the most popular on-the-go eats are represented here, from the Indian samosa to Vietnamese pho, a culinary staple in the coastal nation.

Though Star Ginger uses plates, some aspects of its atmosphere have the casual feel of a restaurant serving food meant to be eaten off newspaper. During lunch, the hungry order at the counter and seat themselves. Dinner features table service, but Pham says flip-flops are always welcome.

The decor is sleek and modern. There is a distinct minimalist feel, with lots of straight lines, tall ceilings and empty space on the walls. A huge flat-screen TV plays the end of the Kings game directly over our table. It might have been nice to add a bit more clutter as a play on the busy street fare theme, but the simplicity is appealing in and of itself.

The menu is true to Pham’s goal of showing the best from throughout Asia, but the options are limited. At dinner there are only 16 entrees available, which is actually fewer than are available at lunch. This is because the delicious banh mi sandwiches are not on the menu in the evening.

The banh mi is done right, with the standard carrots, cucumbers and daikon. Jalapenos give it just the right amount of kick, and the Korean barbecue beef is juicy and tender. On the side are sweet potato fries and a cup of a spicy sriracha aioli. The contrast of sweet and spicy is great.

At dinner, the samosas are served as an appetizer &- three to an order. They are slightly bigger than expected but are not otherwise noteworthy; a standard mix of potatoes, onions, peas and Indian spices. The standout on the plate is the dipping sauce, described on the menu as a coconut-coriander chutney. Green chilies give it a delayed zing, and make it another good example of the sweet and spicy dynamic.

Starters also include vegetarian spring rolls, which are tasty if unexciting, and a Thai beef salad that is neither tasty nor exciting. The slices of meat were good, but the bed of greens was underdressed and bland.

All the protein at Star Ginger is fantastic, mostly because it is raised locally. The shrimp in the pad thai is cooked perfectly and flavorful to boot, and the dish as a whole is a winner &- the rice noodles are ideally al dente.

The barbecue beef makes a much-deserved encore at dinner, although it is in the most expensive dish on a pricey menu. This may be because it is from Niman

Ranch, an upscale farm in the Bay Area. It is medium-rare and the red bean-and-chile marinade lends a hint of heat. It is served on a bed of jasmine rice, which was actually a bit underdone; it seemed like they rushed it on a busy night.

Pham said she does not use MSG in her pho, while most Vietnamese places do. The difference is noticeable. The broth is slightly less flavorful than at other restaurants, but, again, the beef saves the day.

Although Star Ginger is advertised as “budget-friendly,” it is anything but. Pham acknowledges her pho is a couple dollars more expensive than competitors, but she said this is due to the high quality of her product, particularly the meat dishes. The banh mi sandwiches sell for $6 to $7 here, whereas other purveyors might ask $2 to $3. The barbecue beef dish at dinner is $15.

Star Ginger has some tasty food, thanks in part to the vision of chef Pham, and also to its selection of high-quality meats. It is a good place to splurge on a great meal, but is perhaps not for those on a budget.

Alex Grotewohl can be reached at [email protected]