From the mix of black, clear and frosted glass to the fountain decorating the exterior of the restaurant, translucent describes the look and feel of Taro’s by Mikuni.

According to mikunisushi.com, Taro’s opened in Market Square at Arden Fair Mall in November 2005. However, the Mikuni empire is much older. In 1987, Kotaro “Taro” Arai’s parents opened a modest sushi restaurant in Fair Oaks to help support the family.

Twenty years later, Mikuni is one of the most thriving and successful restaurant businesses in the Sacramento area. Calls were unreturned by the Mikuni’s marketing department when asked to set up an interview with Taro.

With all that it has to offer, including plasma screen TVs, a fully stocked bar and an attractive setting, Taro’s leaves you wanting more. Literally.

Decor:

Lights line the outside as gossamer curtains circle the entrance. The decor is modern and hip with a touch of yuppie. Restaurant reviews from various publications line the walls as you approach the hostess and wait to be seated.

Visually, this restaurant is the place to be. Food-wise, you may want to make your way to a more hole in the wall sushi restaurant.

Food:

The menu is anything but simple. There are over 30 different sushi rolls to choose from. Whether they will pique your appetite is a whole different story.

The portions are small to say the least. Anyone who enjoys sushi knows how expensive it can get, so it was disappointing to see the entree and wonder if I’d have to make a McDonald’s run after I left.

If you’re looking for spice, ironically, you won’t find it in the spicy tuna roll. It definitely leaves a lot to be desired. If you like your sushi with a little kick, you may want to put a generous helping of wasabi in your soy sauce. The Annie roll was not as fresh as it could have been, but the crunch of the tempura shrimp made up for it.

Service:

Waiting for a table was the breeziest part of the Taro’s sushi experience. Late afternoon on a Thursday left the restaurant relatively empty, but this is definitely the type of place that jumps with young professionals and the hip alike on any given Friday or Saturday night.

Overall:

And herein is where the problem lies. Taro’s by Mikuni is too consumed with trying to be hip. The mile long sushi bar with the plasma TVs is not going to make up for flavorless sushi and peculiar service. Any sushi experience should be a fun one, but Taro’s can keep their yuppie restaurant and uppity service.

Rating:2 out of 5 martinis

Oneika Richardson can be reached at [email protected]