All Twisted Up

Janet Howard

They’re called cornrows, braids and sometimes plaits and they are more than just a craze. They have been symbolic in Africa since ancient times but now they are becoming an internationally accepted style.

Actress Bo Derek brought recognition to the artful adornment in the film “10” and they have continued to grow as a form of expression and style.

One reason for this repatriation to the African culture is because it?s a natural and convenient way of hair styling. No chemicals and no fuss.

“Braiding is healthy and actually promotes hair growth,” said Venetia James, a loctician at K.I.N.K.S. International hair salon in Sacramento.

James explained that normally a person loses between 150 and 200 strands of hair each day. But when hair is braided, because it is not constantly being brushed and messed with, hair loss is much less.

“It is kind of a rest for your hair,” James said.

Braiding also stimulates the scalp and scalp manipulation promotes growth, James said. James does, however, recommend a two-week rest between new styles because if worn for too long and without a break from the tension of the braids some dermatologists say they can cause traction alopecia. This is a loss of hair from the frontal scalp, at any rate, most locticians say they do not see this much.

Akilah Hatchett, the owner of K.I.N.K.S. International, said having hair styled in braids fulfills a lot of obligations all at once.

“Most importantly, it makes a statement without one even having to say a word,” she said.

“Our hairstyles are an indication of our lifestyles and we have used it as a rededication to African culture,” Hatchett said.

“Braids and cornrows are not a new thing but every time they come back, they come back with a different spin,” she said.

“This time the spin is hip-hop and it?s not just the African American culture that is into hip-hop. Japanese, Latino, European, all races, are represented in this hip-hop culture,” Hatchett said.

Another advantage about braids is they last a long time. Some people will leave them in for up to two months.

Sisterlocks, a natural hairstyle worn by Hatchett, is actually a permanent hairstyle. Doing kind of a reverse braid, almost like crocheting, creates this newer style.

Initially,it does take time to have the hair braided, but the time spent depends on the style and length of a person?s hair.

Braiding hair in plaits, which are braids using larger sections of hair, is probably the quickest style, anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour or two.

Singles are the single long micro braids that hang straight down from the head. These can take hours depending on how much hair a person has.

Many braid designs use additional synthetic hair. The added hair completes the finished look and adds fullness and body.

Cornrows are braiding on the scalp in very small close rows. This can take several hours, sometimes up to six or more, depending on how intricate the design.

“The name cornrow was derived from sharecropping days, because they looked like rows of corn,” Hatchett said.

At K.I.N.K.S International it will cost about $25 per hour to have those little cornrows put on your head and about $20 per hour for braids while a natural Senegalese twist, which is actually a twist instead of a braid, runs about $180 no matter how long the hair is.

Although the cost can be quite an expense and some complain about the length of time it takes to complete a well-done job of fabulous braids, the general consensus among the coifed beauties is it’s well worth it.

Kizzy Whitfield, a senior majoring in chemistry, said her mom or her cousin does the braids that she?s been wearing.

“It?s a convenient way to get up and go each morning,” Whitfield said.

“Even though it takes about six hours to get them done, I like getting them done because I like to wear different styles,” she said.

Aaron McGee, a business major and part-time attendant in the Listening Station at Sacramento State, said he likes to wear his hair in braids because it is easier to care for and it?s an attractive style.

“I think girls like braided hair and it is becoming more accepted in the business world as well,” McGee said.

The only draw back: girls can?t run their fingers through his thick hair.

“But I can still run my fingers through their hair,” he said as he smiled.

McGee admits that braids are not a style for everybody.

“You have to grow your hair out to get past the hat and beanie stage,” McGee said. “Also they can sometimes itch and it takes your scalp a while to get used to having your hair braided. Using a conditioner helps.”

” I?m lucky to have my friend Kier Shaver do mine, she doesn?t work in a salon right now, so she charges people less than what a salon would,” he said.

For more information on braids, cornrows and various other styles, call K.I.N.K.S. International at 443-2713.