“We’re a classic bar. We don’t serve Red Bull.”

That is the snooty response I received when ordering Ketel One and Red Bull at Bandera in Sacramento. Thank goodness for the dim lights so the waiter, and my date, couldn’t see my cheeks turn red.

Only a few steps away from Tokyo Fro’s and a gas station on Fair Oaks Boulevard, the restaurant seems anything but fancy from the outside. It has a “chain restaurant” status, which can always be a risky dining situation.

However, once you step foot inside, Bandera is a whole other world. Luxury and coziness create a welcoming atmosphere, perfect for a first date or special occasion. Just make sure to go on a weeknight if you’re short on time.

On a Saturday night, the sleek-looking, wooden bar was packed with posh-looking 30-somethings clutching drinks and mingling. The enormous bar serves as the restaurant’s focal point and is definitely the place to watch for socialites to schmooze.

As the night wore on, the bar barely had any elbow room, making it difficult to get the bartenders’ attention. This experience was repeated after being seated, with a flustered waiter who seemed to have a lot of better things to do than take our order. Perhaps the restaurant was understaffed, but an explanation for the delayed service never came.

After 20 minutes of waiting for a cocktail, we finally got some attention. Thankfully, the skillet cornbread came out quickly and was amazing to say the least. Dotted with jalapenos and served in a warm skillet, Bandera gives a whole new meaning to everyday cornbread.

While the stressed-out wait staff almost turned our experience into a bad one, the entrees absolutely made up for it. One bite into the rotisserie chicken sandwich and the frustration disappeared. Served with mashed potatoes sprinkled with celery and green onions and au jus sauce, the sandwich tastes like extravagance in a bun.

The restaurant is known for its selection of rotisserie meats, and diners can watch their meals being cooked in the open kitchen’s oven in the back of the restaurant. Barbecue beef back ribs, roasted pork with cornbread sausage stuffing, and sliced leg of lamb are just a couple of the quality meat selections. The menu also has more than 50 wines served by the glass or bottle.

Prices at Bandera run a little steep and are more appropriate for a special night out than dinner on a whim. Sandwiches are around $15 and fish or steak entrees cost around $25. Appetizers are a little more reasonable, running from around $10. While it might be out of most people’s price range, the food is absolutely worth the price.

If you don’t have the time or patience to wait for the food, or would rather enjoy your food in a more laid-back atmosphere, Bandera offers food to-go. A whole chicken to-go is only $11 and you can enjoy the other fine meats to go as well.

While the delicious food somewhat makes up for the so-so service, Bandera should probably get its act together if it wants to keep its noses turned up. It says on the menu “no cell phones in the dining room,” but what else are you supposed to do while waiting for your food?

Casey Kirk can be reached at [email protected]

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