Looking at the dilapidated strip mall hidden amongst a dozen others on Fulton Blvd., you wouldn’t expect to find one of the best and most inviting ethnic restaurants this side of San Francisco. The dining room at Maalouff’s Taste of Lebanon is clean and comfortable with a view of the kitchen. It has a few touches that evoke the eastern shore of the Mediterranean. The quiet music and bright tapestries that cover couches in the small waiting area provide ambiance.

The smell of roasting lamb escapes to the parking lot outside and invites customers in to taste. Inside, the smells of meat roasting on spits and warm pita bread appearing immediately at the table remind customers of a family kitchen.

This feeling is reinforced by Abdul’s quiet welcome, “This is your second home.”

What is Lebanese food, anyway?

Think Indian meets Italian. The heavy, aromatic spiciness found in Indian cuisine is complimented by cool Mediterranean flavors like fresh herbs and vegetables.

My father, who joined me for lunch, grew up eating traditional Lebanese meals in the home of a childhood friend, and pointed out that the menu represents dishes not only from Lebanon, but from throughout the Mediterranean. He did recognize that, the Kibbee dishes and shwarma style meats on the menu are more traditionally Lebanese.

I’m dirt poor, can I afford such an exotic treat?

The prices are reasonable considering the massive amount of food you get. Most dishes range from $4-$12, and some are more than enough for two.

What kind of appetizers do they offer?

The appetizers range from a refreshing yogurt dip ($2.95), served with pita bread and olives, to the more stick-to-your-ribs option, baked meat patties, or Kibbee ($1.75).

We ordered lentil soup ($1.95) and a side order of falafel ($4.50) for the first course. Giant lentils with onion and a number of spices gave the soup the feel of thick chili. My father enjoyed the small cup so much that I barely got a chance to taste it.

The Falafel was spiced with more bite than most. Garlic, paprika, cumin and lots of diced vegetables set it apart from the usual deep-fried garbanzo bean mash that can be had from vegetarian restaurateurs in Berkeley and Santa Cruz.

The serving of seven nuggets with plenty of fresh tahini could have sufficed as an entire meal. Luckily, dad willingly polished off several to allow us both room for the main course.

What are the main course offerings?

Lunch and dinner are available during all times of the day. While lunch is a cheaper bet, dinner offers an even more generous offering of food. For lunch, the chicken shwarma was surprisingly light and tender. Slices of breast meat marinated with wine and garlic, roasted perfectly, were served with generous portions of homouss (humus) and tabouleh.

The tabouleh deserves mention for its unique style. The fresh parsley, mint and tomatoes were the focus. The salad was more salad than crushed wheat. It was refreshing.

The baked kibbee could be compared to meatloaf. It looks like a brownie. The nutty flavor and texture from crushed pine nuts nicely compliments the richly spiced ground beef. The flavor is complex with an array of spices competing for prominence on the tongue. From exotic peppers to cinnamon the flavors melted across the palate.

That all sounds great. So what kind of desserts does Maalouf’s offer?

The most famous dessert dish at Middle-eastern restaurants is Baklevah (a honey-soaked cake with crushed nuts and a flaky top). Abdul, however, suggested a dish advertised with small handwritten signs near the door, Aish al saraieh ($1.95). The tasty dish made us recollect either a rice or bread pudding. It is sweet, creamy, and topped with crushed pistachios. On the next visit I will be sure to have this treat again.

In all, the homemade dishes and sauces Abdul Maalouf provides at lunch and dinner are a treat for adventurous eaters. The prices are reasonable considering the abundance on each plate, and the atmosphere is amazingly comfortable. Next time you’re in the mood for something different, do not hesitate in driving over to Maalouf’s Taste of Lebanon.

Maalouf’s is located at 1433 Fulton Ave. between Hurley and Arden. They offer all meals for takeout and a full dinner menu.